Menswear Style Podcast

Oliver van Lanschot Hubrecht, Brand Director at Alpina / Fine Swiss Watchmaking

July 12, 2022 Menswear Style Episode 182
Menswear Style Podcast
Oliver van Lanschot Hubrecht, Brand Director at Alpina / Fine Swiss Watchmaking
Show Notes Transcript

Alpina was founded in 1883 when Swiss watch making visionary and alpinist Gottlieb Hauser founded the “Alpina Swiss Watchmakers Corporation”, and in doing so united the leading Swiss independent watchmakers, who became known as the “Alpinists”. Initially, the Corporation was developed to optimise the manufacturing of movements and watches by forming a union of manufacturers and suppliers, but Alpina soon began producing in-house calibers. In the 1920s, Alpina was already being sold in 2,000 outlets worldwide, an exceptional figure for those days. It is no exaggeration to say that Alpina was one of the first leading manufacturers of Swiss watches. More than any other watchmaker, Alpina was responsible for the sports watch as it is known today. Gottlieb Hauser was convinced that Alpina would become supremely successful worldwide for the quality, durability, precision and design of his watches. He wanted to provide sportsmen, engineers and adventurers with the ideal watch. His vision became reality in 1938 with the Alpina "4"​. In that year, Hauser revolutionised the sports watch by imposing the four essential principles for any watch to be called a true "Sport Watch."​

In this episode of the MenswearStyle Podcast we interview Oliver van Lanschot Hubrecht, Brand Director at Alpina about the rich history of the watch brand which launched with the aim to create sturdy timepieces to withstand the harsh environmental elements. Our host Peter Brooker and Oliver talk about designing watches for the aviation industry, what the role of Brand Director involves, using recycled materials, marketing brand stories, and what new timepieces are in the pipeline for future release. 

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PB:

Hello and welcome to another episode of the menswear style podcast. I'm your host Pete Brooker. Today I am talking to Oliver van lanschot Hubert he is the brand manager for alpino watches. And again this was an interview I managed to get in person with Oliver at a watch event that we did last week in London and there is a huge debrief of the brand alpino watches on their website like 180 page PDF book that's up there. I'm gonna give you a very thin description here. alpino was founded in 1883 When When Swiss watchmaking visionary and alpinist got leap Hauser founded the Alpena Swiss watchmakers Corporation. And in doing so you noted the leading Swiss independent watchmakers who became known as the alpinists in 2015. Cut smash for about 100 years. In 2015 Alpina introduced the first Swiss made smartwatch thereby creating a new product category in the industry. Fascinating brand fascinating. Jen love talking to Oliver, and make sure you check out alpino watches.com. And look at all the watches that we'll be talking about in this episode. Without any further ado, here is Oliver van lanschot Kubrick. He is the brand director at alpino watches. Well welcome back to another episode of the menswear style Podcast. Today I'm joined by Oliver van lanschot Kubrick

Unknown:

Hoko got that great pronunciation. Thank you,

PB:

the brand manager for alpino watches. Thanks for coming down today. I thank you for inviting me. Excellent. And we have a knock on the door. We've actually got some watches, watches brought in so that we can have a look in product and review them but there they are some beautiful watches on their way. Look at that. Thank you. And what Oliver perhaps you can just give us a thumbnail sketch of view. And if you can paraphrase the entire history of alpino watches into about a minute segment.

Unknown:

That's I'm the brand director for Frogner watches. As you say we've got an extremely rich history. The Alpena brand was actually created in 1883 by somebody called Gottlieb Houser as a watchmaking union. So it was really the first union bringing together suppliers, retailers, designers, to be stronger together as as a group, then the brand was really effectively starting to make watches under the old peanut brand name, starting in the early 1900s, won the gold medal that Paris World Exhibition, for example, had a huge growth and success over the first half of the 20th century, within really the different universes so pilot's watches, for example. Of course, originally, the purpose of the brand was to create a strong and sturdy watch that was able to resist in the harsh environments given by the given by the Alps. But then yeah, innovation over the years, pilots watches divers watches. Also in distribution were the first brand to give an international warranty, for example, in the also in the early 1900s. So also in terms of processes are really rich history there, then the brand ceases cease to exist, following the quartz crisis or 1982 ceased its operations until it was purchased, again, by Peter analysis status, so the founders of critical stone, and then relaunch the brand in Basel world in 2003. So then we've got to hold their second part a rebirth of the brand up to today. So really a rich history we can play with.

PB:

Yes. And I encourage people to go on to the alpino website and have a look at the book, exactly printed in a PDF form. And you can scroll for around 200 odd pages and immerse yourself and that's a wonderful story. I

Unknown:

could speak for it for hours, right, but I've tried to try to keep it focused,

PB:

condensing that. Thank you. But I mean, you're going to elucidate as much as you like, I'm fascinated by the watch. Brand. Perhaps you can talk about what they specifically designed for pilots or maybe for armies or the military at certain points.

Unknown:

Yeah, I think as for other brands, as well, I mean, at the time, I think the military and aviation and the functionality was really guiding innovation within the watch industry. That's for sure. So I'll pin out together with other brands, for example, got a brief from the Royal, the Royal Air Force, you know to design pilots watches that would really help pilots navigate at the end. So they really have functionality, which also guides, you know, the design and the development of the different watches.

PB:

And have they kept that functionality today and the watches that people can buy today from,

Unknown:

of course. So I think these codes, you can really find design, that's a features you can really find in the collections today still. So that's really what what guides the design and the innovation into the watches. I think they're more used as, let's say, a design and a style rather than pure functionality, given the technology that has evolved the hope that when you take a plan, you don't count on your pilot, you know, to fly you to Heathrow using his watch, but, but for sure, it continues to guide them.

PB:

I like to I like the people that buy certain watches, because they might have helium valves and they go, Well, I'm submerged in 300 metres worth of water, don't worry about it. I've got my wand, like great, okay, for that one in a million chance. I love that, that you've got that too. And so as a brand manager, brand director, so perhaps you can talk about your day to day role and was a nine to five like view?

Unknown:

Yeah. So it's extremely varied. I mean, my role is obviously to develop the brand from a commercial perspective, as well as from an awareness perspective. So I really have a central role within the company. I'm working with all the different departments whether of course communication, would you be responsible for developing the marketing and communication activities to raise awareness, but then also have an eye on product development. It's really, let's say, a very hybrid roll, which makes it extremely interesting, because you really have, let's say, have an overall view on the first ideas of the development of the watch, all the way to the distribution, and the the moment to where it's at to which it's, it's sold out. So I think that's really the not every day is different, let's say that's for sure includes travel, it includes being at the manufacturer also coordinating and, and, you know, speaking with all the different departments who are realising and developing the watches, till the till the end.

PB:

Okay, so that's fascinating. So you're there from the birth of maybe a design idea, if you were to release a new watch, you're kind of overseeing that, and then following that entire journey, along to market with having lots of integral parts and moving parts along the way, pardon the pun. So these must feel like you're your children by the time they hit the marketplace, because you've been with these watches for so long.

Unknown:

Yeah, true. I mean, that's really the interesting part of it, you really start with an idea, and we know it's somebody wearing wearing the watch. So that's the beauty of it to be on the chance, you know, to be able to follow it from from A to Z. Of course, all the people working in the manufacturing, you know, have all their specialities you know, and they all have the elements that's bringing, bringing to the to the end watch. But I think that in my position, that's the chance to participate at my level, let's say that all the different, different stages.

PB:

So we put some more chairs in front of us. And perhaps you can just show me if you don't mind, what we're looking at here, and people will leave some links into the show notes so that they can see what we're talking about here.

Unknown:

So we've got presenting here two beautiful watches. The optional brand really has three clear universes that we're playing in. So air, land and sea. Three collections. Today we're presenting one watch, which is within the land universe, under the collection name alpiner. And we're showing here the alpiner extreme, which is a beautiful watch, that's also inspired by the more recent history of all pinout. So in 2006, we launched the initial initial avalanche extreme, which is a very strong and oversized watch, which had a 48 millimetre diameter. So really a big, big watch. And we fully redesigned the case here to 42 millimetre. So as you can see a very strong case. So it's construction is really in four different layers. You can see a beautiful bezel, you can see that the screws on the bezel also have the optional triangle logo, which represents the metal horn by the by the way, very nice pattern on the dial as well. Also. So with three dimensionality, you're given also by the by the LP not triangles. So really a beautiful watch that that is here, true to the history of the brand very recognisable, iconic, in its in its own way. And this is really going to be the strong focus for all Pina launching in the next next few months after the after the summer, and will really be the focus elements for the brand in the next upcoming years.

PB:

And how much would people be looking to spend on a watch like this?

Unknown:

So at the very accessible price of 1450 pounds So this is also what makes the brand that unique. So we really have here, beautiful automatic watch with strong opener DNA, and the very accessible price positioning. So So I think it takes a lot of boxes, I love

PB:

them. And the second one looks to be

Unknown:

yes. So here we can dive into the, let's say the C here with the C strong calendar diver 300 calendar. So this is in our C universe, the C strong collection with a beautiful watch, which is very unique, as well as it is the first watch that is developed using a case are using recycled stainless steel for the for the case. Also recycled bracelet, recycled strap here using recycled plastic bottles.

PB:

Oh wow, that's so cool. And for people I'm looking at it looks to be like a bird's eye fabric like a mottled grey and black. But so that's made out of recycled materials as well as Yeah, really cool.

Unknown:

recycled plastic bottles. So we create thread out of it, which is then woven to create this beautiful textile looking looking strap

PB:

is a thing of beauty. So, Oliver, you touched upon the sustainability element of this being made out of recycled elements? How much of that sustainability is now a focal part for the brand? Albina?

Unknown:

So this is a very, very good question. First of all, I mean, having playing within the universes of you know, air, land and sea, of course, we're directly living everyday, you know, within within nature within the environment. Of course, the sustainability topic is an extremely interesting one, and goes much further than then the product. Of course, we've been working now for the past couple of years at really working on the sustainability roadmap, really looking at how to integrate that into our mission, but then also how we can really act as a company and and fully act as a company in a sustainable, sustainable manner. So normally, indeed, the product should be coming at the end of this of this process, as a result of company roadmap and a company behaviour. So we're working very hard on that. But of course, we've also been already starting to use some recycled materials. So far, through partnerships, as well as sustainable partners. But we've still got a long, long way to go. Yeah, but but but working hard on it. And hopefully we can also pioneer a little bit and, and how to how to open up

PB:

another he's going to be more of the focus for these kinds of watches to be made out of these kinds of materials moving forward with developing

Unknown:

well down the road. I think that is clearly an objective. Now it's true that this remains niche for us. Let's let's face it, recycled materials are stainless steels, for example, it's quite, quite scars, and also brings brings in additional additional cost. So this particular piece here is limited to 300 300 pieces. But hopefully we can integrate more and more of this and that it will be fully included within our product ranges. But also bringing transparency at the end you know on on the the sourcing of our product

PB:

nice as your brand manager. How do you we touched upon the the marketing of the watches out there on how do you like start in terms of that watch you have a you have a new watches sustainable elements? How do you now start to get that and bring awareness to that product? Do you have like a touchstone or a base that you work from? And then go right, we need to put this over here, get this in front of eyeballs over there? Is there a strategy behind and maybe you can talk about those strategies?

Unknown:

Yeah, of course, I think that this is, this is for sure, let's say support or platform into which we can communicate by we have an interesting story behind this watch, which we call it the calendar for a particular reason. So this is actually a tribute or homage to the calendar ship from 1942. It was the first ship to fly the Swiss sail at sea. So of course Switzerland has nowhere no access to sea, but only only lakes. But during the Second World War was a lot of trouble, you know, to get goods up to Switzerland. So the calendar was the first ship and then we scrapped in, in Hong Kong. So what happens with all that steel for example? So this is this is of course, an element you know, that we can raise awareness with, through our different communications through our different partnerships. So I think it's really a central piece, then communicate around our different initiatives.

PB:

So that was made out of the boat, there's still

Unknown:

no reason it was a good question. So the boat was dismantled in 1953 in Hong Kong. So it doesn't come from this particular boat, but it comes from marine transportation. So the story, let's say that the sourcing is the same. But of course, he wanted to make tribute to that particular ship. And then also emphasise, you know, on the fact that the stainless steel coming out from scrapping, you know, is also also used. Oh, absolutely.

PB:

Yeah. Would you do? Would you look at a project like that in the future? Maybe if there's perhaps some, okay, let me let me frame this. I'm going to skirt around the IBC in the film The Man with the Golden Gun. Absolutely. Okay, so you have the Queen Elizabeth ship that's in the harbour of Hong Kong. Yes. And Roger Moore kind of goes past in a ship, it's capsized. And it was a famous ship because it mysteriously caught fire and sank and remained capsized in Hong Kong. And then it caught fire again sunk to the bottom of the bay. And they had to get it out because of all the tidal was messing with the tidal stream within the Bay Area them. And so various companies came in and took parts of it and produced it, repurposed it so you have things like Parker pens, that have like certain amounts of the metal, and then pens and they became ludicrously exclusive. So, do you have this bit of a strange good? Do you have, like things are like that, that could be further down the road? Anything? Oh, we need to do something where we can get it from the actual source.

Unknown:

This is not to be very, very honest. In our in our plans, I think that we're really focusing at making, you know, beautiful, strong, Swiss made watches close to the LP na DNA, using, of course, you know, sourcing materials that are that are that are sustainable, that's for sure. But I love the idea.

PB:

To be fair to all of us. I didn't have that question. pletely threw him under the bus.

Unknown:

You can see some brands, brands doing that, and so on. But it's not, not directly one of our one of our focuses.

PB:

Perhaps you can talk about what is your focus, maybe for the remainder of this year? I mean, we have this watch coming out. But is there anything else down the pipeline as well that you have?

Unknown:

So I think focus is the is the key word here, we're really launching the the alpiner extreme. So this will really be our will be our key launch stuff we're going to be communicating on that we're going to be further developing. So this is the first piece that's going to come out now. And there are going to be, let's say many other evolutions of this piece coming on down the road. And then also through communication platforms, that's going to be you know, helping us to get that, that that what's out there. So so that's really our key focus. Let's be let's be clear

PB:

on the phone. You doing bezel world?

Unknown:

Ah, that's, that's, that's a good one. So, unfortunately, while or I don't know, unfortunately, maybe Basil is not in the it's not in the picture anymore. So we're going to be at Geneva watch days in August. And then and yeah, yeah, let's see what, what comes afterwards.

PB:

Amazing. All right, Oliver, thanks so much for taking time out and walking me through these beautiful watches today. We'll leave all the links on the show notes on the website so people can have a look at them. alpino watches.com was also place people can hang out and in the shops. I want to say hi Samuel, H Samuel. What shop What's your Well, well, Ernest

Unknown:

Jones

PB:

sounds absolutely people can find out there and also all the store locators online you can find out where to get these beautiful timepieces. Thanks again. Thank you very much really enjoyed it. Anytime. You've been listening to the menswear style podcast, be sure to head over to menswear style dot code at uk for more menswear content and email info at menswear style.co.uk If you'd like to be a future guest on the show. Finally, please help support the show by leaving a review on iTunes or wherever you're listening to this podcast. Until next time

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