Menswear Style Podcast

Jonathan Bordell, Co-Founder of The Helicon Watch Company / British Watchmaker

Menswear Style Episode 223

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0:00 | 28:29

In this episode of the Menswear Style Podcast, we speak with Jonathan Bordell, co-founder of The Helicon Watch Company, the independent British watch brand combining decades of industry experience with limited production, accessible pricing and a distinctly personal approach to watchmaking.

Helicon is unusual in being a husband-and-wife operation. Jonathan and his wife Danielle each bring around 20 years of experience in the watch industry, with Jonathan specialising in sales and marketing and Danielle coming from a design background that began with creating movie posters.

After years spent consulting for other watch companies, the pair decided to take everything they had learned about design, manufacturing, components and the international watch market and create something of their own.

The result is Helicon: a proudly independent microbrand built around producing one project at a time in strictly limited numbers. Rather than releasing the same watch repeatedly in different colours, Jonathan explains why Helicon prefers to complete a collection and move on to something entirely new.

We discuss the philosophy behind the watches and why Jonathan sees them as something closer to clothing than simply an instrument for telling the time. Like a favourite jacket, shirt or pair of jeans, a watch becomes part of how someone expresses themselves — something that should look good, feel good and develop a personal connection with its owner.

Jonathan takes us into the technical side of Helicon too, from sapphire crystals and scratch-resistant ceramic bezel inserts to 316L marine-grade stainless steel cases, 200-metre water resistance and custom brass movement holders designed to provide additional protection from magnetism and shock.

Exclusivity is another important part of the proposition. Helicon produces just 50 examples of each colour, giving customers the opportunity to own something genuinely unusual without entering the price territory traditionally associated with highly limited watches.

We also explore the advantages that come from Jonathan and Danielle's extensive industry experience. With a global network of specialist manufacturers and craftspeople built over two decades, Helicon can draw on expertise normally associated with much larger watch companies. That includes working with individual specialists such as Amy, the craftsperson responsible for hand-painting Helicon's dials, whose background includes restoring vintage Rolex dials.

The conversation gets into the realities of running a microbrand as well, including managing specialist suppliers, planning collections years in advance and remaining nimble enough to incorporate new materials, technologies and manufacturing techniques as they become available.

We also discuss the changing culture surrounding watch collecting. Jonathan explains why the community has become younger, more diverse and increasingly open to independent brands, while women in particular are challenging traditional assumptions about watch sizing and how different styles should be worn.

Naturally, James Bond makes an appearance too, as we explore the enduring relationship between watches and cinema, the appeal of a well-worn watch with a story behind it, and why collectors increasingly want different watches for different moods and occasions rather than remaining loyal to a single marque.

Finally, Jonathan discusses the growing strength of the British watchmaking community, Helicon’s plans for international events in the US and Asia, and why meeting collectors face-to-face remains one of the most important parts of building an independent watch company.

A fascinating conversation about watches, craftsmanship, design, collecting and the appeal of discovering a small independent brand with a story worth telling.

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