Menswear Style Podcast

Ed Bartlett, Founder of Kostüme / Cycling Apparel

Menswear Style Episode 217

Use Left/Right to seek, Home/End to jump to start or end. Hold shift to jump forward or backward.

0:00 | 33:38

In this episode of the Menswear Style Podcast, we speak with Ed Bartlett, founder of Kostüme, the British cycling apparel brand taking a radically different approach to technical clothing, sustainability, creativity and the traditional fashion cycle.

Ed’s route into cycling apparel is anything but conventional. An entrepreneur for more than two decades, he began his career in the creative industries before spending 15 years in the video game world, where he founded one of the first businesses to integrate real-world brands into video games.

He later moved into the art world, working with artists and producing exhibitions, before another personal passion ultimately led him towards cycling.

A keen long-distance cyclist, Ed began riding extraordinary distances — sometimes 300 kilometres in a single day — and quickly discovered the shortcomings of conventional cycling apparel. Hours spent in the saddle gave him plenty of time to think about everything from fit and fabrics to why the cycling industry seemed so heavily focused on racing, heritage and suffering.

The result was Kostüme.

Ed explains how the brand aims to create the best possible cycling apparel by combining high-performance materials, obsessive attention to detail, sustainability and an entirely different approach to production. Rather than manufacturing huge quantities and hoping they sell, Kostüme works primarily through limited-edition pre-order batches known as “Edits”, producing what customers actually order and dramatically reducing waste.

We explore why this model can change the economics of a small independent brand. By removing excess stock, unnecessary warehousing and the huge volumes traditionally baked into fashion supply chains, Kostüme is able to invest more heavily in premium European fabrics and manufacturing.

That commitment extends throughout the supply chain. Kostüme works with multi-generation, family-run European manufacturing partners, with sustainability deeply embedded within their operations. Ed explains why having the flexibility to produce smaller runs is crucial to making the pre-order model work.

We also discuss one of the brand’s biggest points of difference: its relationship with the art world.

Each Kostüme Edit is developed around an artist collaboration, giving the clothing a creative identity that goes beyond conventional cycling graphics. Ed explains how his years in the art world gave him the relationships and credibility to approach artists directly, and why his research suggested that a significant number of modern cyclists are already deeply engaged with art, design and creative culture.

That insight challenges the traditional image of the cyclist as someone interested primarily in racing and performance. Ed argues that the modern cycling community is increasingly motivated by freedom, adventure, exploration, social connection and lifestyle — whether that's road cycling, bikepacking, multi-day rides or simply getting outside.

We talk about how COVID accelerated these changes, bringing new riders into cycling and encouraging former cyclists to return to the sport, while indoor platforms and training systems such as Peloton and Zwift have created entirely new ways for people to engage with cycling.

The conversation also gets into the details of what makes a great piece of cycling apparel, including the importance of fabric selection and the painstaking process Ed uses to assess performance, stretch, feel and durability before committing to a material.

Kostüme’s bib shorts are a particular focus, including the highly regarded chamois and premium fabrics that have helped earn the brand industry recognition and exceptional customer feedback.

Ed also shares his thoughts on the future of physical retail. Rather than opening conventional permanent stores, he sees opportunities for highly produced pop-ups and experiential spaces that bring together the online and physical sides of the brand, allowing customers to actually touch, feel and test the products.

A fascinating conversation about cycling, art, entrepreneurship, technical clothing, sustainability and the future of fashion — and why producing less, but making it significantly better, could be the most interesting direction for the cycling industry.

www.menswearstyle.co.uk

People on this episode